:root{--ink:#161616;--mute:#77736c;--bg:#f4f2ee;--card:#fff;--acc:#e0447a}
*{box-sizing:border-box}body{margin:0;background:var(--bg);color:var(--ink);font:16px/1.5 "Helvetica Neue",Helvetica,Arial,system-ui,sans-serif}
a{color:inherit}header.top{display:flex;align-items:baseline;gap:22px;padding:22px 24px;border-bottom:1px solid #0001;flex-wrap:wrap}
header.top .logo{font-weight:800;font-size:30px;letter-spacing:.06em;text-decoration:none}header.top nav a{margin-right:20px;font-size:20px;color:var(--mute);text-decoration:none}
header.top nav a:hover{color:var(--ink)}main{max-width:1280px;margin:0 auto;padding:0 24px 64px}
h1{font-size:clamp(40px,7vw,88px);line-height:.95;margin:36px 0 10px;letter-spacing:-.02em}h1 em{font-style:normal;color:var(--acc)}
.lede{max-width:640px;color:#333;font-size:18px}.stats{color:var(--mute);margin:8px 0 22px;font-size:14px}
#map{height:62vh;min-height:380px;border-radius:10px;overflow:hidden}.leaflet-tile-pane{filter:grayscale(1) contrast(.95) brightness(1.03)}
.pin{width:44px;height:44px;border-radius:50%;border:3px solid #fff;box-shadow:0 1px 6px #0006;background-size:cover;background-position:center}
.pin.more{outline:3px solid var(--acc)}
.marker-cluster,.marker-cluster div{background:#e0447acc!important;color:#fff;font-weight:700}.marker-cluster{background:#e0447a44!important}
.bar{display:flex;gap:10px;flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:center;margin:28px 0 14px}
.bar select{font:inherit;padding:6px 10px;border:1px solid #0002;border-radius:6px;background:#fff}.bar .n{color:var(--mute);font-size:14px;margin-left:auto}
.grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(220px,1fr));gap:18px}
.tile{display:block;text-decoration:none;background:var(--card);border-radius:8px;overflow:hidden;transition:transform .15s}
.tile:hover{transform:translateY(-3px)}.tile img{width:100%;aspect-ratio:4/5;object-fit:cover;display:block;background:#ddd}
.tile .cap{padding:9px 12px 12px;font-size:14px}.tile .cap b{display:block;font-size:15px}.tile .cap span{color:var(--mute)}
.badge{display:inline-block;background:var(--acc);color:#fff;border-radius:20px;padding:0 8px;font-size:12px;margin-left:6px}
.piece{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,3fr) minmax(320px,2fr);margin-top:28px;height:clamp(440px,76vh,700px);background:var(--card);border-radius:14px;overflow:hidden;box-shadow:0 2px 14px #0000001a}
.hero{position:relative;overflow:hidden;background:#e8e5df;min-height:0}
.hero::before{content:"";position:absolute;inset:-40px;background:var(--bg) center/cover;filter:blur(30px) brightness(.93) saturate(1.1)}
.hero img{position:relative;display:block;width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:contain;cursor:zoom-in}
.side{display:flex;flex-direction:column;padding:22px 24px 24px;min-width:0;min-height:0}
.piece.tall{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,2fr) minmax(340px,3fr)}
@media(max-width:860px){.piece,.piece.tall{grid-template-columns:1fr;height:auto}.hero{height:auto}.hero img{height:auto;max-height:72vh}.side #mini{min-height:320px}}
.side h1{font-size:clamp(34px,5vw,56px);margin-top:0}.facts{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0;border-top:1px solid #0001}
.facts li{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:14px;padding:8px 0;border-bottom:1px solid #0001;font-size:15px}.facts li span:first-child{color:var(--mute)}
#mini{flex:1;min-height:240px;border-radius:10px;overflow:hidden;margin-top:18px}.notes{white-space:pre-wrap}
.visits{margin-top:44px}.visit{margin:0 0 34px}.visit h3{font-size:15px;margin:0 0 10px;color:var(--mute);font-weight:600;letter-spacing:.04em;text-transform:uppercase}
.strip{display:flex;gap:10px;overflow-x:auto;padding-bottom:6px}.strip img{height:260px;border-radius:6px;cursor:zoom-in;display:block}
.pn{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;margin-top:40px;gap:12px}.pn a{text-decoration:none;color:var(--mute)}.pn a:hover{color:var(--ink)}
#lb{position:fixed;inset:0;background:#000e;display:none;align-items:center;justify-content:center;z-index:3000}
#lb img{max-width:92vw;max-height:90vh}#lb button{position:absolute;top:50%;transform:translateY(-50%);background:#fff2;color:#fff;border:0;font-size:40px;width:54px;height:80px;border-radius:8px;cursor:pointer}
#lb .p{left:12px}#lb .nx{right:12px}#lb .c{position:absolute;bottom:14px;width:100%;text-align:center;color:#ddd;font-size:14px}
footer{color:var(--mute);font-size:13px;padding:24px;text-align:center}